Cooks Mill Campground, Cathedral Range State Park (VIC) Review

Our Prado with its rooftop tent and awning set up among the trees at Cooks Mill, with a camp table and two chairs
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We didn’t think much of Cooks Mill before we got there, but it turned out to be a hidden gem. It sits in Cathedral Range State Park, a couple of hours north-east of Melbourne, on the site of an old timber mill beside the Little River, with big unmarked sites tucked into the forest. We drove in over the Black Spur late in the afternoon and found a spot well away from anyone else, and it was one of our favourite nights of the whole trip.

What we like

  • Quiet, spread-out forest sites
  • Little River beside camp
  • Walks straight from camp
  • Room for a rooftop tent setup
  • Fireplaces and a shelter

What we don’t

  • No drinking water
  • Sites aren’t marked
  • Bring your own firewood

About Cooks Mill

Cooks Mill is a Parks Victoria camping area at the foot of the Cathedral Range, shaded by Peppermint, Blackwood and Red Stringybark gums. A sawmill worked here in the 1940s and 1950s, and the Cooks Mill Heritage Site is a short walk away. You book and pay online before you arrive, all year round, but you can’t reserve a particular site: the sites aren’t marked, and you choose your own spot when you get there. When we checked, it was $35.60 a night for up to six people. The main area is open all year; the section along Tweed Spur Road closes from after the King’s Birthday long weekend in June until before Melbourne Cup weekend, when the ground gets waterlogged.

The green Cooks Mill, Cathedral Range State Park sign in the long grass, with facility icons
The sign in the long grass shows what facilities to expect

Quick facts

Getting There

From Melbourne, take the Maroondah Highway over the Black Spur to Buxton. Carry on 9.5 km past Buxton, turn right into Cathedral Lane, and the park entrance is 2.5 km along on the right. Follow Little River Road past Neds Gully camping area; Cooks Mill is at the start of Lowerson Track, just before the road crosses the river. The park roads are gravel and fine in the dry.

The Cathedral Range State Park turn-off sign at a junction on the sealed Maroondah Highway
The turn-off is 9.5 km past Buxton on the Maroondah Highway
A brown Cathedral Range State Park sign on a sealed road lined with tall gums
Follow the signs along Cathedral Lane
The green Welcome to Cathedral Range State Park sign where the road turns to gravel
The road turns to gravel as you enter the park
A green signpost at a gravel junction pointing to Neds Gully and Cooks Mill campgrounds, the Jawbone carpark and Sugarloaf Saddle
The junctions are signposted all the way to Cooks Mill

The Campsites

The sites are big, open clearings among the trees, with bollards and logs marking out the edges but no site numbers, so you pick the spot you like. Most suit tents, and there’s a limited area for camper trailers, campervans and caravans; our Prado with the rooftop tent fitted easily. The best thing about it is how spread out it is: with the forest between the sites, it felt like we had the place almost to ourselves.

Our Prado with its rooftop tent set up on a forest site at Cooks Mill, next to the Saint Bernards Track sign
Our site was right next to the Saint Bernards Track
A round concrete fire ring on a big open gravel site at Cooks Mill, with the toilet block among the trees behind
This big open site has a fire ring, with the toilets in the trees behind
The open, grassy camping area at Cooks Mill with a shelter, tents and cars spread out among tall gums
Camps are spread out, with plenty of room between them

Campground Layout

The camping area sits where Little River Road meets Lowerson Track, beside the Little River. Neds Gully camping area is a few kilometres north along the river, the Saint Bernards Track heads west to the Jawbone carpark at the foot of the range, and the Friends Nature Trail loops past the old mill site to the south-east. The Tweed Spur 4WD track runs south to Sugarloaf Saddle.

Sketch map of Cooks Mill and the Cathedral Range: Cooks Mill camping area beside the Little River, Neds Gully camping area to the north, the Jawbone carpark and the Saint Bernards Track to the west, the Cooks Mill Heritage Site and the Friends Nature Trail to the south-east, the Tweed Spur Road south to Sugarloaf Saddle, and the peaks of the range along the west Cooks Mill and the Cathedral Range Sketch map, not to scale The Cathedral Range Little Cathedral The Cathedral Neds Peak North Jawbone South Jawbone Sugarloaf Peak Little River Little River Rd Tweed Spur Rd · 4WD Lowerson Track FriendsNature Trail Cooks Mill camping area Neds Gully camping area Jawbone carpark Cooks Mill Heritage Site The Farmyard Sugarloaf Saddle To Cathedral Lane & Buxton Camping Gravel road 4WD track Walking track Carpark / site
Our sketch of Cooks Mill from the trailhead board: the camping area beside the Little River, with Neds Gully to the north, the Saint Bernards Track west to the Jawbone carpark, the Friends Nature Trail past the old mill site, the Tweed Spur 4WD track south to Sugarloaf Saddle, and the peaks of the range along the west.

Facilities

There’s a toilet block with non-flush toilets and a water tank, picnic tables, communal fireplaces and a picnic shelter. There’s no drinking water, so bring all your own, and no bins, so take your rubbish home. Fires are only allowed in the fireplaces, never on a Total Fire Ban day, and collecting firewood in the park isn’t allowed, so bring your own. Pets aren’t allowed in the park.

The non-flush toilet block at Cooks Mill with a water tank beside it, among the trees
The non-flush toilets have a tank, but bring your own drinking water

Evenings by the Little River

The Little River runs right past the campground, clear and shallow over the rocks, with tree ferns along the banks. It’s a lovely spot to sit by in the evening. The picnic shelter, with its tables, is on the grass right next to the river. The water isn’t safe to drink unless you boil or treat it.

The clear Little River flowing over rocks under tree ferns beside Cooks Mill campground
The Little River runs clear and shallow right beside camp
The timber picnic shelter with tables on the grass beside the Little River at Cooks Mill
The picnic shelter sits on the grass right next to the river

Walks from Camp

Several walks start from the trailhead at the campground. The distances and grades below are from the Parks Victoria board at the trailhead. From the Jawbone carpark, the harder climbs to North and South Jawbone and The Farmyard go on up the range.

  • Friends Nature Trail

    2 km
    circuit, about 1 hour, Grade 2

    An easy family loop past the old mill site, through Manna Gum forest and over Storm Creek and the Little River.

  • Little River Track

    2.7 km
    one way, about 45 min, Grade 3

    A gentle winding track along the Little River to Neds Gully camping area.

  • Saint Bernards Track

    1.5 km
    one way, about 45 min, Grade 3

    Through the forest to the Jawbone carpark, the start of the climbs to North and South Jawbone.

  • Messmate Track

    4.4 km
    one way, about 1.5 hours, Grade 3

    A moderately steep climb through Messmate forest to Sugarloaf Saddle, starting about 2 km along the Tweed Spur 4WD track.

A green signpost beside the gravel road at Cooks Mill pointing to the historic site, Friends Nature Trail, Tweed Spur Road 4WD, Sugarloaf Saddle and the Messmate Track
The signpost points to walks that start right from camp
The Welcome to Cooks Mill Trailhead board with a map of the park and its walks
The trailhead board has a map of the park and its walks

Things to Do Nearby

The Cathedral Range climbs are the big draw: from the Jawbone carpark the tracks go up to North and South Jawbone, and fit walkers can do whole circuits along the range. On the way in from Melbourne, the Black Spur on the Maroondah Highway is one of the most beautiful drives near the city, through tall mountain ash and tree ferns in Yarra Ranges National Park.

The Maroondah Highway winding through big tree ferns and tall mountain ash on the Black Spur
The Black Spur, one of the most beautiful drives near Melbourne, on the way in

Summary

Cooks Mill is a hidden gem: big, quiet forest sites beside the Little River, with walks into the Cathedral Range starting from camp and hardly anyone around. Book ahead, pick your spot when you arrive, and bring your own water and firewood.

8.9/10
The verdictField-tested rating

A hidden gem in the forest.

We didn’t expect much from Cooks Mill, but it turned out to be one of our favourite camps of the trip: big, unmarked sites tucked into the trees beside the Little River, hardly any other campers near us, and walks into the Cathedral Range starting right from camp. Bring your own water and firewood.

Best for
  • Couples
  • Hikers
  • 4WD tourers
Worth the drive?

Yes. $35.60 a night gets you a quiet forest site by the river, with walks from camp, a couple of hours from Melbourne.

There’s no drinking water, so carry plenty in good water containers. You’ll need your own firewood, and a folding saw makes it easy to cut to size. On fire ban days, cook on a gas stove like the Dune single burner, and a headlamp like the Black Diamond Astro 300 helps on the walk to the toilets after dark.

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FAQ: Cooks Mill Campground

Do you need to book Cooks Mill?
Yes, you book and pay online with Parks Victoria before you go, all year round, but you can’t reserve a particular site: you pick one when you arrive. When we checked it was $35.60 a night for up to six people.
Can you take a caravan to Cooks Mill?
There’s a limited area suitable for camper trailers, campervans and caravans; most sites suit tents. Our Prado with the rooftop tent fitted easily.
Is there drinking water at Cooks Mill?
No. Bring all your drinking water. The river water isn’t safe to drink unless you boil or treat it.
What walks start from Cooks Mill?
The Friends Nature Trail (2 km circuit, about an hour), the Little River Track to Neds Gully (2.7 km one way) and the Saint Bernards Track to the Jawbone carpark (1.5 km one way) all start from camp, and the harder climbs to North and South Jawbone go on from there.

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